There have been some long days, but even on the shorter days we often end up arriving in the dark due to problems with the bikes or lengthy boarder crossings. Although I have no regrets in choosing to do this particular trip and schedule, I do wish we could slow down and spend more time seeing the sights instead of rushing through with barely the time to take photos. I'd like to do the trip again, with half the millage per day.
The last few days in Peru are now a blur. There were some interesting sections, but also lots of long straight roads through empty desert. The support truck blew it's head gasket and we had to leave it in Nazca. Despite a day off in the town, the famous Nazca lines were another victim of the pace of this trip. The day off was taken up with work on the bikes and a welcome opportunity to catch our breath.
We then travelled along the coast for a few days, including one night in a strange Butlins like campsite by the side of the motor way just south of Lima. We were actually also near the sea but the armed security guards advised us not to venture through the town.
We also spent a night at the beach resort of Mancora. After a brief swim in the sea we spent the evening being eaten by mosquitoes. Despite this I really enjoyed Mancora. We ate in a tuna restaurant, the fish was apparently caught that day and it was easily the best food of the trip - beating even the Argentinean steak.
The border crossing to Ecuador was much the same as other crossings - slow but straight forward. There was at least an air conditioned room to wait in. Just before setting off I noticed that my sub frame had cracked again. I had to leave the top box behind and repack with everything on the passenger seat in a big roll bag. I'll use a bolt and some washers to clamp the crack, but I will have to cope without the rack until I can get a new frame in the US.
As soon as we crossed the boarder the scenery changed. We rode through thick banana plantations before rising again in to the mountains. Land slides meant there was no road at times and we had to ride up steep muddy tracks. We stayed over night in Azogue.
Our early start was thwarted when Andy's Harley broke it's belt. It was eventually fixed and we headed off. Passing through Riobamba and on to Latacunga, we got covered in the ash rising from Cotapxi. I was just thinking how much I was enjoying the Ecuador when my eyes started to burn and filled with tears. The three riders in front of me were clearly suffering the same problem and we pulled in to the side of the road. We had just overtaken a police car and we think he sprayed us with CS gas as we passed him. As we were by the side of the road the car drove past but did not stop. The symptoms subsided and we continued on to Quito, the capital city.
The standard of driving on the three lane roads round the city was incredible. We were doing 50-70 mph and cars were screaming past on the inside and outside. It demanded total concentration, but it felt like a race track and was actually great fun. After leaving the city behind we were once again in the mountains, heading to the equator and a 17th century Hacienda for two nights.
